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International Defensive
Pistol Association (IDPA)
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International Practical
Shooting Confederation (IPSC)
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Quick Guide
Competition Starter`s Kit
IDPA - What is the IDPA?
IDPA - Which Class?
IPSC - Glock vs 1911
IPSC - Equipping the G35
Competition Starter's Kit
So, you've heard a bit about action pistol shooting and have decided you want to compete in action pistol, but realize that the 5 shot S&W revolver you own won't take you too far. Now you don't have $10K to toss down on the counter of your local gun shop, but you want some good equipment. Problem is, you don't really know if IPSC, Steel, IDPA, etc. is your cup of tea. We'll try to simplify the sheer volume of guns and gear out there and try to give you a good list of equipment to put in your starter's kit.
What exactly will we need? Of course, we will have to get a gun, a belt and a holster. But, we also need some ammo or reloading supplies, mag carriers, extra magazines, eye and ear protection, and a way to get all the stuff to the range. Can you see the cash register rolling up thousands of dollars? It need not break your bank. Here we go!
Let's start with the gun. Now, remember, we are on a starter's budget, so cost and no gunsmithing and limited after market accessories are of primary concern, provided we can get a reliable weapon. This pretty much rules out 1911s. Sure there are single stack Springfields and Kimbers that are great pistols, but they are of lower capacity and not really a beginners best bet and more costly. If you must have a 1911, the Kimber polymer frame models are probably your best bet. Sig, H&K, Ruger, and Glock are pretty much what we are looking at. No one can argue the reliability of some of these, others not so great. But the edge here really has to go to the Glock. Simplicity of use, great reliability and low maintenance, combined with the lowest cost, make it the beginner's best bet. With the recent influx of factory rebuilt Glocks on the market, the price can be under $400 with a hi-cap magazine in some parts of the country. 10 round magazines are under $20 and even if you decide to buy a hi-cap or two, the total price is still less than the cost of the others.
So, looking at a Glock, which model? If we want to try IPSC or 3-gun, we will need to make major power factor (slug weight times velocity/1000, currently 165 makes major). Based on the rules and power factor, and keeping in mind a factory rebuild, we are looking at a G22 (.40 S&W) or a G21 (.45 ACP). The grip of the G22 is smaller and will fit more shooters hands than the G21. The G22 makes major and the .40 S&W ammo prices have come in line with the 9mm and .45 stuff. So a Glock M22 it is. Cost: $400
Now let's get a carry rig. We want speed and ease of use plus a holster that is legal in all of the different games. Having tried just about every holster out there, and in considering the rules, a Sidearmor Kydex holster is the best bet. IDPA legal, probably the fastest vertical scabbard holster on the market, and heck, it is plastic to go with our plastic gun. Retention is also great and it is IDPA legal. At just under $60, they are not cheap, but they offer the best compromise of cost, speed and durability. We will of course need a belt, a GOOD stiff belt. There are several good belt makers out there, but make sure it is strong and sturdy. A good belt will go for $20-$50 depending on whether it is leather or nylon. Mag carriers are needed too. You should have 4 pouches for IPSC. Sidearmor does make single pouches, but they are not the best for competition. Leather dual pouches or nylon with plastic inserts from one of the major makers will work well in the various sports. Even the Glock factory mag pouches are fine. Look at spending $20-$40 per dual pouch. Cost: $150
How many additional magazines will depend on what came with your gun and what type. Now, going out and dropping $350 on 4 hi-caps is not recommended. 2 hi-caps and 2 ten rounders will get you through 99% of all courses. Remember, most good course designers, in all the sports, design to be 8-10 round neutral. The last two IPSC matches I shot, I never used more than 10 rounds out of my Taylor Freelance equipped hi caps with 20 rounds each. So go with 2 ten rounders and 2 hi-caps. On the hi-caps, it is a good idea to put the Taylor Freelance basepads on them. They run about $30 each, but get you 4-5 more rounds in the mag. For steel courses, this is a huge benefit. For IDPA, it makes your tactical reloads much easier. However, you could easily just use 4 ten-rounders. With the new IPSC production class, 10 rounders are the limit anyway. Cost: $250 ($80 for ten-rounders)
We will also need to get good protective equipment. Eye and ear protection are a must. Silencio makes wraps that run under $10 and are very good. There are some shooting glasses kits out now that have a vermilion, amber and clear lens with a case for around $20. This is a good investment. Good muffs are also relatively inexpensive. I much prefer the fitted foam-gel inserts that can be bought at gun shows for about $30. In warm climates, you will appreciate the cooler ears and these won't interfere with your glasses like muffs. Cost: $50
A range bag is invaluable, but need not cost you $150 either. Several innovative shooters have used camera bags, plastic tool chests, or 5 gallon buckets with bucket organizers. All can be less than $20. I even had a friend who used his wife's old beauty consultant bag. He eventually spray-painted it black to stop the teasing, but it cost him nothing but some ego points. Wal-Mart carries some cheapo camera bags that work fine for starters. Cost: $20
The one area where I hesitate to make a solid recommendation is ammunition. You can lay out from $200-$1000 for reloading equipment, and if you stick with it, it will pay for itself. However, most new shooters should not get into reloading at the same time due to cost and just learning something else at the same time. If you really start out hot and shoot one steel, one IDPA, one IPSC and one other match a month, you'll shoot about 250 rounds. Double that for practice and you are at 500 rounds. For .40 S&W, you'll be looking at about $90/half case. If this is the case, and you know you will stick with it, a few hundred dollars to get started in reloading may be a wise investment. If on the other hand, you will go to one match a month, say 60 rounds, it will take years to repay the price of reloading equipment. Concentrate on the sport and leave reloading for next year.
So, if I add it all up, not counting the ammo, I can get started for $700 if I use ten rounders and still easily under $1000 for hi-caps. The beauty is that most of the stuff will hold its value and if you decide that action pistol is not for you, you can get almost all of your money back out. For the guy who runs out and buys a $2000 1911, he'll lose about 25% when he fires the first round.
No, it is not cheap, but it is well worth it if you end up enjoying it. If after a few years, the bug has bitten, you can sell that "beginner's kit" to another person starting out and move up to something else. [MarkCO]
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What is the IDPA?
IDPA, the International Defensive Pistol Association, is what IPSC was many years ago. It was created to provide a forum for those wishing to compete with practical carry guns, gear, and ammo. Everyone can compete, not just on an even basis, but on PRACTICAL courses. The courses either test practical pistol skills or have the competitor solve a problem that could be encountered using a pistol for defense. Civilians with CCW permits, the lost tribe of old IPSC, LEOs, and those wanting a more realistic sport are being drawn to IDPA in large numbers. [MarkCO]
For more information check out the IDPA home page http://www.idpa.com
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What IDPA class does my Glock belong in?
Here is the official answer from the IDPA FAQ:
"WHAT DIVISION DOES MY GLOCK BELONG IN?
A Glock that otherwise meets the criteria set forth in the equipment section of this rule book belongs in the Stock Service Pistol Division unless it has had modifications done to it other than those allowed in that division. If additional modifications have been added (examples: Robar grip reductions, add- on magazine well opening), the modified Glock must compete in either the Enhanced Service Pistol or Custom Defensive Pistol Division depending upon its caliber."
In addition, any Glock which can compete in SSP can also compete in ESP (if 9mm or .40 S&W) or CDP (if 10mm, .45 ACP, or .400 Cor-Bon, provided the ammo makes 165 Power Factor). [MarkCO]
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Why are extended mag & slide releases legal only on G34/35?
Here is the official answer from the IDPA FAQ:
"IF THE GLOCK MODELS 34/35 ARE PERMITTED IN SSP DIVISION WITH FACTORY INSTALLED EXTENDED SLIDE RELEASE AND MAGAZINE RELEASE, WHY CAN'T I PUT ONE ON MY GLOCK THAT DIDN'T COME FROM THE FACTORY WITH ONE?
The key words here are "factory installed". If the option is available from the factory on your pistol model it would be allowed if not specifically excluded in the rules. Should Glock decide to make these parts a factory option on other models then they will be allowed on those models even if not factory installed."
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Can Glocks compete with 1911s in IPSC?
Glocks can be competitive in IPSC. There are many Master class shooters and some Grand Masters who shoot Glocks. There are parts that can be improved on to increase the competitiveness of the Glocks. The G35 really shines in IPSC limited class and .40 caliber is the smallest that can safely make major. A G35 with a good IPSC rig, competition sights, extended pads on high-cap mags, 24# springs for major loads, mag wells or Seattle slugs, competition triggers, etc. are all accessories that will probably move you from one class up to the next. [MarkCO]
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Equipping the Glock 35 for IPSC Limited Class Racing
When I first got into shooting IPSC in the early 1990s, I had a lot of folks checking out my new Glock M22 because, in the 1911 dominated IPSC racing world, few had ever even seen a plastic gun. I moved up to a G24C and tried that for a while, but, being a young college student while supporting a drag racing and stock car racing habit as well, IPSC took a back seat.
When Glock came out with the new practical/tactical series, I knew I had to have a M35 for IPSC limited. I bought the first M35 my dealer ever sold and set out to make it better. No longer was the Glock totally snubbed in local IPSC competition and a few GMs had even raced Glocks into the top sixteen at Nationals. Aftermarket parts offerings had spooled up for the Glocks too with more gadgets than you could shake a stick at. But, which of these parts work, which are junk, which actually help, and which might even make your new racer need a "roll cage?" The next few years allowed me to try, test and evaluate most of the aftermarket products on the market and arrive at what I feel is the best component set to modify the Glock M35 for limited IPSC class competition. Some areas are purely preference, and I'll be sure to point these out. Hmm, DVC, (Speed, Accuracy, and Power) so our goal is to improve handling, accuracy, and speed and take out some recoil for the major loads. Here we go!
THE UPPER
Let's focus on the upper first. The slide is fine stock and unless we want to customize it for "sex appeal" we can leave it alone. The sights will obviously need some attention, as well as the recoil assembly, the barrel, firing pin and spring.
Sights are purely a matter of preference, so if you know what sights you like, skip to the next section. I have tried a few types of sights, standard notch and post, express, fiber optic and ghost ring. While I am the most accurate with the notch and post, the fiber optic and ghost ring offer the eye-grabbing edge I need to keep focused on the front sight and go faster. For me, the Dual ghost ring from JP Enterprises is the fastest sight I have used (so just slightly faster than January molasses). I am going to stick with this set-up for the 2000 season and evaluate at the end. If I use anything else, it will most likely be the fiber optics the top guys are using (there has to be a reason they are using them).
*ADD* The 2000 season saw two things happen for me with sights. First, the JP is blazingly fast inside 10 yards, but past 20, hitting plates is tough and 50 yards standards: what a joke. I ditched them and tried fiber optics. I found that they have some of the same characteristics as the JPs. But, almost all of the top shooters went back to black notch and post sights. I went with the MMCs for the Glock and will probably stay with those for good. As a note, on my defense G27, it has an MMC rear and a "Tri-Lux" front. It is a small tritium encircled by fiber optic in a standard sized blade. For defense work, it is my favorite.
The stock recoil assembly belongs one place, and it is not in your IPSC tuned M35! We won't delve into the technical side of Glock recoil spring rates here, but suffice it to say that all .40 caliber Glocks are undersprung. Glock uses the slide mass only to calculate spring rate and the canned formula works for the 9mm, but not the heavier calibers. (Note: The M35 uses a 17# recoil spring which is the same spring in the M22, M24, M24C, M17, M17C, and M34.) There are a variety of aftermarket springs systems and recoil reduction systems on the market. Some are okay and a few are actually dangerous. They all attempt to reduce the recoil. Some affect accuracy too (No gunsmith, this is not a 1911!). The best bet to me is a Wolff stainless steel recoil rod and a 22# spring. YES! 5# over stock. I have not had one jam with the M35 using a 22# spring with major PF loads, even weak handed on standards. The beauty is you can get a 14# spring for the 130 PF steel or GSSF load too. With only this change, the M35 cut about 1" off the 25 yard group from a Ransom Rest. I opted for a Tungsten rod for a tad of extra weight, and it can't hurt.
*ADD* USPSA now has a 165 PF and I have dropped down to a 19# spring in my G35. Still sucks up some recoil and the timing is very good. Weak hand speed shoots still function 100%.
Over the past 8 years or so, I have been suggesting to major caliber Glocksters that they upgrade the springs to help tame recoil and improve frame life. The feedback has almost always been positive (there are still some who think stock Glocks are all perfect). Some claim a reduction of felt recoil in the 50% range. I think 25-30% is more accurate, but it definitely reduces felt recoil improving recovery times. This change will also drastically increase the life of your frame and brass.
The stock barrel is okay, but will get you grimaces from your fellow .40 shooters if they get your brass mixed in with theirs. The Glock chamber is LOOSE and partially un-supported in the 6 o'clock position. This leads to working of the brass and the infamous bulge. You can only safely reload the brass from a .40 Glock a few times to major before you start to increase your risk of case failures. You also can't safely shoot lead through the stock barrel. Aftermarket stainless barrels take care of several issues. You can safely shoot lead, the chambers are tighter, the bulges are less, the brass lasts longer and the accuracy improves. They also look "cool." I have tried barrels from most of the majors and for the ease and money, KKM is probably the best bet, about $135 and no fitting required. I did get the best accuracy from the Wilson barrel, but it costs a bit more and needs gunsmith fitting. If you like Bar-Sto, Briley, Wilson or another, that is fine, go with them. The Ransom rest differences with each barrels best load were all within 1/2" at 25 yards. I cannot however recommend the Federal barrels for IPSC. The chambers are too rough and reliability suffers. Once you switch to a match barrel, remember the chambers are tighter and you won't be able to shoot any ammo like you can with the stock barrel. You might need to go to a round-nose bullet and DO NOT mix your Glock barrel fired brass with your match barrel brass. The brass will also be able to be loaded to IPSC major many more times than the brass fired from a stock barrel.
Next comes the firing pin. Again, there are several products out there, some okay and some not. I would discourage the use of the titanium firing pins. Titanium is actually soft and repeated "hammering" will deform the firing pin leading to an unsafe condition. I have seen 2 Glocks go full-auto due to damaged Titanium firing pins and several more get the pin jammed in the firing pin channel making the gun non-functional. Glockmeister realized this and has introduced a factory pin that has been lightened. It will reduce lock time, but combined with a reduced weight firing pin spring, is unreliable. In my opinion, the reduced weight firing pin spring does more good than the lightened firing pin. So stay stock on the firing pin. Wolff makes the reduced weight firing pin spring and combined with a good trigger job, makes for a great trigger.
THE FRAME
There are 3 areas where we can improve the frame for IPSC limited competition. These are the trigger, the grip, and the addition of a mag well.
As mentioned above, a reduced power firing pin spring helps with the trigger pull. (Note to 1911 gunsmiths again, Striker fired!) Hopefully you have the M35 with the 3.5 pound connector, if not, you will need one. The other trigger improvement involves polishing the trigger components. This will smooth the trigger out and slightly reduce the trigger pull. If you do not know what you are doing, this is better left to a Gunsmith. Glockmeister offers a whole replacement group, and JP Enterprises and Glockworks work on your original parts. The M35 trigger with a reduced power firing pin spring, a 3.5 pound connector and proper polishing will come in at just under 3 pounds, but much smoother and crisper.
The plastic frame offers a less than perfect grip. There are some sock type grips like the Hogue Hand-all, but it adds unwanted girth for me. There are also companies that do grip enhancements, but the expense and modification are un-appealing to me. Skateboard tape and Decal Grips are viable alternatives, but the best grip enhancement for me is the AGRIP from Brooks Tactical Systems. This is a proprietary material that covers the whole grip. It is thin but offers unsurpassed purchase, even when wet. Brooks apparently has some "top-secret" contracts that use this material. I use a piece of skateboard tape for my left thumb on the side of the frame and on the bottom of the trigger guard for my weak hand index finger. Helps with control a lot!
The last frame component is a mag well. You need something, but this is a little bit of a preference area also. Several companies make mag wells, but not all are compatible with the magazine extensions. One that is compatible with all extensions is the Seattle Slug from Taylor Freelance. It adds some weight and interfaces well with the AGRIP. Using it without the AGRIP, or some other method to hold it tight, the threads on the set screw may tend to hog out the lanyard hole in the grip. The new model of screw with the flat head helps eliminate this.
MAGAZINES
You will want hi-capacity drop free magazines. Yes they are expensive, but we are building a racer right? I have never needed more than 4 hi-caps in an IPSC course, but I carry 5 just in case. My last magazine is usually a non-drop free since if I go to that, I won't be reloading again. Also, having tried all of the plus two and plus 4 pads, the best ones are from Taylor Freelance, and they are 140 mm legal (they even make 170 mm legal). Turns 15 rounds magazines into 19 round magazines. NOT LEGAL FOR USE ON 10-ROUNDERS! These pads improve reload times and magazine capacity to run with the 1911 widebodies.
Non-Drop free magazines can be made to fall free with about 8-10 rounds or less, with a little work. First, smooth off any rough edges or extraneous plastic threads or ridges, then get some CHEM-SLICK, made by Chemsearch. This is Dimethyl Polysiloxane Release Agent. Few things make me say WOW!, this does! Talk about industrial strength Liquid-Wrench, Armor-All, and WD-40 all rolled into one. Well, want to turn those NDF mags into Drop-frees, this stuff does it. Now the bad news, it costs like $30 per 11 oz. can, has to be bought in 12 can cases and they do not sell to just anyone. I have been using this stuff for a while now and it really works. Anyone in the mold making industry can probably hook you up with it or something similar. Just a mist into the mag well and a mist on the mag tube once in a while. Also plan your stages to have only a few extra rounds and they do fine without any work. I am still on my first can, so a little goes a long way.
HOLSTER/RIGS
The best holster for the Glock is currently the Ghost. I bought a CR Speed Holster before the Ghost came out and I really like it, but the Ghost is amazing. The CR Speed is adjustable for all Glock models, and it is fast and sturdy. Use of the Arredondo plug adapter will make for a faster draw. The Safariland #077 roller mag carriers and a good inner/outer belt rig are the finishing touches on setting up the Glock M35 for IPSC limited competition. If you want a holster that goes double duty for IDPA, Sidearmor makes the fastest IDPA legal M34/M35 holster on the market.
Well folks, that about wraps it up. These are the components that have passed muster after 2 years of trying and testing all of the various components and brands of parts on the Glock M35. I hope that you have found this a valuable resource to start building up your own Glock M35 for IPSC limited competition.
[MarkCO]
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